If people talk about alpine climbing in the Oberallgäu, one immediately thinks of the typical grass-covered mountains. The "Höfats" (IV) in particular awaits mountaineers with steep and challenging climbing walls with fantastic views. Other peaks that wait to be climbed are "Trettachspitze" (IV), "Gimpel" and "Schneck".
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Maps and trails
The 10 Most Beautiful alpine climbing routes in the Oberallgäu

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
Rädlergrat (Himmelhorn)
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Difficulty
VI
difficult
25 km
10:30 h
1,444 m
1,444 m
Very serious alpine undertaking over a razor-sharp ridge with steep grass up to 70 ° and rock difficulties up to the 6th degree (UIAA), only a few pitons available (one of Walter Pause´s routes in extreme rock)

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
South ridge (Burgberger Hörnle)
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Difficulty
IV, 4a
easy
3.4 km
4:00 h
550 m
550 m
Short and easily secured climbing up to the 4th grade (III/A0), perfect for getting started with alpine climbing

Alpine Climbing
· Allgaeu Alps
Schwarze Wand (Northern Fuchskarspitze)
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Difficulty
V+, 5b
difficult
15 km
9:00 h
1,188 m
1,179 m
The „Schwarze Wand“ on the Northern Fuchskarspitze is a well-secured, enjoyable climb and it has a beautiful, solid cliff up from the third pitch. Above all, it offers climbers who don´t have that much experience in alpine climbing a good exercise in building mid-route belays and in orientation.

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
Über die Krottenspitzen - der längste Allgäuer Grat
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Difficulty
IV
difficult
31.6 km
14:00 h
2,500 m
2,500 m
Landschaftlich grandiose Überschreitung des längsten Grates der Allgäuer Alpen. Anspruchsvolle Kletterstellen bis in den IV. Grad, ausgesetztes Gehgelände in brüchigem Fels, mehrere Abseilstellen und nicht zuletzt die schiere Länge der Unternehmung bilden ein Anforderungsprofil, dem nur erfahrene Allround-Alpinisten gewachsen sind.

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
Schwarzer Riss (Trettachspitze)
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Difficulty
V+, 5b
moderate
6.6 km
8:00 h
492 m
1,461 m
Vertical, exposed climbing in mostly firm, compact rock through the west face of the Trettachspitze (alpine classic)

Alpine Climbing
· Allgaeu Alps
Höfats Southwest Ridge (IV)
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Difficulty
IV
difficult
18.3 km
11:00 h
1,500 m
1,500 m
A truly wild dance on a knife edge. Only alpine climbers experienced in steep grabs, who can keep a cool head even in brittle, poorly secured rocky terrain, will be able to enjoy what is perhaps the most elegant ascent of the „uerischsten“ mountain. The exposure on the sharp and steep ridge edge is enormous, even by Höfats standards! An unforgettable dream tour for the aforementioned clientele.

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
Schneckgespenst (Schneck east face)
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Difficulty
VII-, 6a+
difficult
15.7 km
11:00 h
1,200 m
1,200 m
Vertical and exposed wall climbing in mostly solid, rough rock in the famous east face of the Schneck

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
Spiralriss (Eastern Wengenkopf)
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Difficulty
V, 5a+
moderate
4.2 km
6:00 h
246 m
246 m
Short, but still rewarding climbing not far from the Nebelhornbahn (in the spiral crack that gives it its name, you can only enjoy climbing without a backpack)

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
South Ridge (Southern Höllhorn)
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Difficulty
VI-, 5b
difficult
27.1 km
8:00 h
1,350 m
1,350 m
Alpine pleasure climbing in mostly solid rock in the beautiful surroundings of the Allgäu Alps

Alpine Climbing
· Allgäu
Bayerländerweg (Western Wengenkopf)
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Difficulty
V-
difficult
27.1 km
13:00 h
1,555 m
1,555 m
The Bayerländerweg leads over the shady north-west pillar up to the Western Wengenkopf, there are drilled belays and intermediate safety devices, beautiful climbing spots in solid rock, and lots of loose rock in the easy terrain
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Reviews
11
South Ridge (Southern Höllhorn) by Christian
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
May 16, 2023
·
Outdooractive Editors
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When did you do this route? September 12, 2022
Steil baut sich die Südkante (rechte Begrenzungskante) beim Zustieg ins Hornbachjoch auf.
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Die Kletterei an der Kante ist von Beginn an ausgesetzt.
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Links dominiert die grüne Höfats...
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
...rechts die graue Hornbachkette...
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
...und oben steiler, abdrängender Dolomit.
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Bereits im oberen Drittel der Kante angelangt
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Die kurze, aber absolut lohnende Südwand des Nördlichen Höllhorns
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Tiefblick aus der Südwand des Nördlichen Höllhorns
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Ein bescheidenes Holzkreuz ziert den höchsten Punkt des Nördlichen Höllhorns
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Comment
South ridge (Burgberger Hörnle) by Markus
November 08, 2022
·
Community
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When did you do this route? November 01, 2022
Ungefährer Routenverlauf
Photo: Markus Zeppenfeld, Community
Blick aus der zweiten Seillänge zum Einstiegsplateau
Photo: Markus Zeppenfeld, Community
Der Südgrat selbst
Photo: Markus Zeppenfeld, Community
Comment
Höfats Southwest Ridge (IV) by Christian
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
October 20, 2022
·
Outdooractive Editors
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When did you do this route? October 19, 2022
Rückblick auf die Schlüsselstelle (IV)
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Die Schlüsselstelle (IV) stellt dieser Aufschwung dar
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Standplatz nach der Schlüsselstelle im ersten Felsaufschwung
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Der zweite Felsaufschwung ist kaum leichter, als der erste (IV-)
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Standplatz nach dem zweiten Felsaufschwung
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Gipfelpanorama vom Westgipfel
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Abstieg vom Westgipfel und Aufstieg zum zweiten Gipfel
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Die bevorstehende Überschreitung vom West- auf den Ostgipfel
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Aufstieg zum Mittelgipfel
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Tiefblick auf die Käseralpe im benachbarten Oytal
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Der finale Anstieg auf den Ostgipfel: Entweder hart auf der Kante (dann III in gutem Fels), oder links der Kante auf erdigen Tritten (unschwierig, aber oft feucht und extrem luftig!)
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Gipfelpanorama vom Ostgipfel
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
Mit dem geraden Horizont kommt hier die Steilheit der Höfatsflanken besonders gut zur Geltung
Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
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